January, 2012

                                       Fly Pattern:Matuka

              Tyer's Name: Mark Fox
              Date: January 9, 2012

    Fly Originator and History: Originated in New Zealand and popularized in North 
    America by Oren Mackwell of British Columbia.

                                How the Fly is Fished
    Suggested line and leader: This depends upon the local stream, water conditions 
    and the activity of the steelhead.
    Depth: It should be fished as a wet fly where there is some current and the 
    steelhead are present.
    Suggested retrieve:  No special retrieve is suggested. You normally have to 
    find out what works on any given day.
    Comments: This fly fishes well when there is some current present and the hackle 
    fibers are normally moving. Generally the fly is fished by casting across and 
    downstream and allowed to sweep across current. Rather than weighting the fly,
    Mark recommends using a sink tip line.

                                Fly Material
    Hook : #2  Gamagatsu T10-3H, (or equivalent).
    Thread: Black,  Danville Flymaster Plus 210, pre-waxed.
    Weighted y/n : No.
    Rib: Flat embossed silver tinsel (varnished)
    Body: Purple Seal Sub dubbing, or try peacock herl.
    Tail: 2 each, Purple Spey or Schlappen feathers. 
    Collar: Purple  Spey or Schlappen.
    Optional: Add a second collar using a natural colored teal feather.
    Comment: Try using various color bodies, and collars.


                                Tying Steps 
    1. Lay down a thread base from behind the eye to just above the point of the 

    2.  Tie in the rib from above the point to about the mid-point of the shank.

    3. Tag. Wrap the ribbing forward about 1/4-inch to create a small tag. Secure 
    the tag with a couple of wraps of thread.  Do not cut the tinsel, as it will 
    be used  later on.

    4. Body. Form a dubbing loop in front of the tag and then wrap the thread forward 
    to the end of the return loop.

    5. Apply the dubbing to the loop and wrap it forward to the end of the eye's 
    return loop. It may be necessary to apply several layers of dubbing to achieve 
    the body thickness you like.

    6. Tail: Tail feathers should be as straight as possible. Prior to tying-in, 
    align the tail feathers with the convex sides facing each other. Tie in 2 tail 
    feathers just behind the eye.

    7. Rib.  Grasp the end of the  tail feathers with one hand. Then, stroke the 
    barbules that lie on top the shank upward - wetting the feathers helps. Now 
    wrap the tinsel forward. Avoid trapping any barbules under the ribbing. Tie 
    down the ribbing just behind the eye. Use a bodkin to pick out any trapped 
    barbules and dubbing.

    8. Collar. Tie in the collar by the tip, just in front of the ribbing terminus. 
    Wrap forward two times, then tie it down. 

    9. Optional: Add a second collar using a teal feather. Tie it in just in front 
    of the first collar (as shown in the picture).

    10. Whip finish and glue.
                 Rick Shadforth 02/09/12