Goddard Caddis

April 2013

                               Fly Pattern: Goddard Caddis 

            Tyer's Name: Bill Kindler
            Date: April 1,2013

    Fly Originator and History: The Goddard Caddis was originally called the 'G&H 
    Sedge' The idea for the pattern was developed by John Goddard and his friend, 
    Clive Hendry, in London, England as a still water pattern. The idea was to spin 
    hair such as Deer, Elk Belly, or Caribou and trim it into a caddis shape. In the 
    1960's Goddard gave Andre Puyans several G&H Sedges. Puyans then introduced 
    the fly to the Bay Area, and mistakenly named it the Goddard Caddis.

                                How the Fly is Fished
    Suggested line and leader: Floating line with tapered leader.
    Suggested retrieve: Use standard dry fly techniques.   
    Comments: Since the fly is extremely buoyant, it works will in fast or 
    slow waters.

                                Fly Material
    Hook: Size 12 Dry Fly, Tiemco 100 or equivalent (feel free to tie it using a 
    size 14 or 16 hook).
    Thread: UTC 140 denier nylon Ultra Thread, brown.
    Body: Long, fine textured, light colored mule deer hair.
    Hackle: Reddish-brown saddle hackle. Use a feather that is one or two sizes 
    smaller for the hook size being used.
    Other: Double-edged razor blade

                                Tying Steps 
    1. Wrap a thread base from 2 eye-lengths behind the eye to a point just above 
    the barb ("the bend").

    2. Prepare a bundle of deer hair. The bundle should be about the diameter of a 
    pencil. Comb-out the under fir and cut off the tips.

    3. Body. Lay the bundle at the bend, parallel to the shank. Hold the back end 
    of the bundle firmly (do not allow the bundle to spin). Give the bundle two 
    soft wraps, then draw the thread tight. The front end of the bundle will flair. 

    4. Now anchor the flared bundle by wrapping the thread forward through the flared 
    hair. Use your fingers or a hair packing tool to push the flared hairs back toward 
    the bend. Compress the first bundle and secure with a couple of half hitches. 
    Apply a small amount of head cement to the half hitches to prevent the first bundle 
    from spinning.

    5. Prepare the next bundle.

    6. Lay the bundle in front of the first bundle. This time, spin the bundle, 
    compress it against the previous bundle, secure with half hitches and apply cement.

    7. Repeat steps 5 and 6 until about 3/4 of the shank is covered with compressed 
    deer hair. Then apply some additional  half hitches and head cement.  Cut the thread.
    NOTE: It may be easier to trim the deer hair if the fly is removed from the vise.

    8. Rough Trim. Use scissors to trim the bottom of the fly . Trim the deer hair 
    so that the bottom surface is flat, and the bend and point of the hook are 
    exposed (see photo above).  

    9.  Now trim the top and sides of the fly. Trim the top and sides to give the 
    fly a wedged shape (see photo above). 

    10. Place the fly back on the vise. 

    11. Fine Trim. Use a double edged razor blade to produce a smooth, wedged-shaped 
    top and sides, and a smooth bottom.

    12. Hackle. Wrap a thread base from the front of the body to about an eye-length 
    behind the eye. 

    13. Tie in the hackle with the dull or concave side facing forward. Wrap the 
    hackle forward and aft, giving it about 3 or 4 full wraps of hackle.  With the 
    feather near the eye, tie it off and cut off the unused hackle. Apply a couple 
    of half hitches, and slightly compress the hackle.

    14. Whip finish and apply head cement.

	            Rick Shadforth 10/10/13