Gartside Pheasant Hopper by Bill Kindler

                             Fly Pattern: Gartside Pheasant Hopper 
	Tier's Name: Bill Kindler.                   
	Date: 03/07/08.                                                 

	Fly Originator and History: Jack Gartside first tied it up while camping at Madison 
	Junction in Yellowstone Park in 1970 or there about. This hopper can be successfully 
	fished anywhere in Washington any where hoppers are present, color and size will 
	vary with local hoppers.

                                        How the Fly is Fished
	Suggested line and leader: 9' floating line with tapered leader and 4' Tippet.
	Depth: Dry fly fished one the surface.
	Suggested retrieve: Dry fly retrieve with random multiple twitches.
	Comments: See the web site:   

                                        Fly Material
	Hook make /size / length: DAI 2461, 1270 or equivalent, 2X or 3X long, size# 6-14.
	Thread: size / color /type: Danville's 6.0 or 3.0, color varies with body color.
	Weighted? y/n : no.
	Tail material size / color: Moose hair.
	Body and thorax material size / color: Dry fly dubbing (color to vary).
	Ribbing size / color: Furnace or dyed grizzly hackle feather to match body color 
	- use a size 16 hackle on a #12 hook.
	Under wing size / color: Deer or elk hair (to extend to tip of tail).
	Over wing size / color: Spar Varnished molted pheasant back feather
	Head size / color: Deer or Elk hair trimmed to shape.
	Legs (or kickers): Deer body hair on each side of the wing should extend to 
	approximately half the wing length.
	Comment: The pheasant hopper is not a difficult fly to tie; however it is a 
	bit time consuming.

                                        Tying Steps
	Select and prepare a number of pheasant back feathers in varying sizes for tying. 
	To prepare a feather strip away all unnecessary fluff from the base and dip the 
	feather in spar varnish. Wth your finger wipe off excess varnish and stroke the 
	feather to shape so that you have a natural V-shape at tips and set aside to dry 
	for up to twelve hours. So plan ahead. 
	1. Tie in 6-8 moose body hairs for a tail on top of the hook roughly 2/3 the 
	shank length. 
	2. Make a dubbing loop, and move the thread forward. Add dubbing to the loop and 
	twist to the left, forming a dubbing rope. 
	3. Forming a medium size, smooth, uniform under body, wind the rope forward to 
	approximately 1/3 the way to the eye. Tie down and trim the excess. 
	4. Strip one side of a hackle feather, tie in by butt, and palmer over the body 
	about 5 turns. Tie down at front of body and trim excess. Trim hackle bottom, 
	and sides so the front hackle is slightly longer than the rear (front hackle 
	should be slightly longer than the hook gape).
	5. Tie in a cleaned stacked and even clump of deer hair on top of hook shank 
	(at a point where body was tied off), the length to reach the tip of tail. 
	Trim excess butts.

	6. Choose an appropriately sized, prepared pheasant back feather (one that will 
	extend to at least half way up the length of the tail) and cup over the body so 
	that it appears tent like. Tie down and trim excess.
	7. Tie in a small clump of cleaned deer hair (stacked and even) on each side of 
	the wing. These legs should extend to the rear approximately half the length of 
	the wing. Trim butts, leaving about  1/2 so that they stand away from the shank 
	to form a sort of collar to allow for a smooth transition from the legs to the 
	tip of the head. Take a couple of wraps of thread tight in against the tie point 
	to lock in the hairs that will stand out away from the shank. 
	8. Finally tie in a clump of deer hair (bushed and cleaned) and tied in so the 
	butts point to the rear of the hook. Distribute hair evenly to form the head. 
	Trim to a hopper shape, squarish and slightly higher on top than on the sides 
	(which are clipped rather flat). Avoid a Muddler or cone shaped head. Also be 
	careful not to cut off the legs in the process of trimming.

                                                    Erik Simpson, 03.21.08.