Dragon Fly Nymph

April 2010

                                Fly Pattern: Dragon Fly Nymph

                           Tyer's Name: John Gort     Email: (see roster)
                           Date: April 1, 2010        Phone: (see roster)

    Fly Originator and History:  John was introduced to this fly by a bunch of fly 
    fishers from Kamloops, British Columbia. 

                                       How the Fly is Fished
    Suggested line and leader: Sinking line, tapered leader, fluorocarbon tippet.   
    Depth range: Deep, just above the aquatic grasses.
    Suggested retrieve: Quick retrieve - try to keep the fly from dragging on the bottom.
    Comments: John likes to put his boat close reed beds, and cast out into 
    the lake beyond the drop-off. Then retrieve the fly. 

                                       Fly Material
    Hook make /size / length: #6, 3XL.
    Thread: size / color / type:  8/0 Olive Uni Thread.
    Weighted? y/n: No.
    Tail material / size / color: Olive pheasant tail fibers.
    Body material / color:  Olive vernille (also referred to as 'micro chenille'), 
    and peacock brown Arizona Semi- Seal  dubbing. 
    NOTE: John likes to blend-in a little bit of  red dubbing into the mix.
    Ribbing size / color:  Medium copper wire.
    Thorax / color: Dubbing, same as body, and peacock herl.
    Legs /color: Olive mallard flank.
    Wing case / color:  Brown raffia.
    Hackle size / color:  --
    Head size / color:  Dubbing, same as body.
    Eyes/color: Black monofilament eyes. John makes his own using black plastic beads, 
    'trapped' in a small piece of 50# monofilament. 
    Other:  --			
                                       Tying Steps

                                     Dragon Fly Nymph, Top View

    1. Tie in a thread base from the eye to the bend (just above the barb) and run 
    the thread back to about 1/3 of the way behind the eye.

    2. Tail. The tail should extend just beyond the bend of the hook. Tie in about 10 
    or 12 pheasant tail fibers. Tie down the fibers to the bend. Run the thread 
    back to the 1/3 point. Trim off the excess fibers.

    3. Body. At the 1/3 point, tie in about 2-inches of olive vernille to each side 
    of the shank. Tie the vernille down back to the bend. 

    4. Run the thread to the 1/3 point, and then fold both pieces of vernille forward, 
    along the sides of the shank, and tie them down. Trim off the excess vernille.

    5. Tie in a piece of copper wire on the bottom of the shank, and tie it down to the bend.

    6. At the bend, form a dubbing loop. Add a generous quantity of dubbing into 
    the loop. Lay the copper wire over the loop and twist to the left,  forming 
    a rather messy looking rope. Run the thread to the 1/3 point

    7. Wrap the rope forward to the 1/3 point, and tie it off. Trim off the excess.

    8. Trim the body.  Being careful not to cut off the tail or the thread, trim 
    the body: The top and bottom should be trimmed rather close to the shank, and 
    the sides should be a little wider. 

    9. Legs. Each of the legs consists of about 12 fibers of olive mallard flank fibers. 
    When tied in, the legs should be about even with the bend of the hook. Tie in 
    the legs on each side of the shank,  just in front of the body (on the bare shank). 

    10. Eyes. Tie in the eyes on top of the point where the legs were tied in. 

    11. Wing case.  Tie in a piece of raffia just behind the eyes. Pull the raffia 
    forward, between the eyes and tie it down. Do not cut.

    12. Add some sparse dubbing to the thread and wrap it in front and behind of 
    the eye ('Figure-8' wrap).

    13. Thorax. Tie in 2 pieces of peacock herl just behind the eyes. Twist and 
    wrap the herl twice (behind the eyes) and tie off.

    14. Pull the raffia back and tie down just behind the thorax. Leave a small tab 
    of raffia (about 1/16-inch) and cut off the remainder. Whip finish at this point.

        Rick Shadforth 04/02/10