Dillinger Spey Fly

October 2013

                               Fly Pattern: Dillinger Spey Fly 

            Tyer's Name: Erik Simpson
            Date: October 7,2013

    Fly Originator and History: Harry Lemier originally designed the Dillinger 
    fly which is similar to the Dunt Dee fly (developed in Scotland during the 19 century). 
    Dillinger has fewer materials, is easier to tie and demonstrate. Harry has a 
    DVD on how to tie the Dillinger, which is available in the OPFF library and 
    also sold at Waters West. Harry enjoyed tying his flies 'In hand' (which means 
    without a vise) from 1990 until his death in 2012.  Before vises were invented 
    in the 1900's, all flies were tied in hand. With modern fly tying tools, magnifiers 
    and with proper lighting, tying without a vise is now much easier. Fly tying 
    without a vise is not for everyone. However, Harry said there is no reason why 
    we cannot now enjoy the art of tying flies without a vise. To carry on Harry's 
    tradition, I will tie his Dillinger fly in hand.

                                How the Fly is Fished
    Suggested line and leader: This fly can be fished as a wet fly using a shooting 
    head, or a lead line with a short tippet.
    Suggested retrieve: Generally the fly is fished by casting across and downstream 
    and then allowed to sweep across the current near the bottom.   
    Depth: This fly is generally fished along the bottom in a moving current. It is 
    fished well in a current where the hackle fibers look like legs moving in the water. 
    Comments: Harry fished the Dillinger as a wet fly effectively in the Sauk and 
    Skagit rivers during the winter months.
                                Fly Material
    Hook: Alec Jackson, Size 1-1/2, #2051 or Partridge Size 2 both with the return eye.
    Wax: Premium Dubbing Wax or equivalent
    Thread: White UNI-Thread 6.0 or 8.0.  
    Tag: Medium silver flat tinsel.
    Tail: A medium Golden Pheasant Crest feather (washed and dried).
    Body: Black and claret seal fur substitute in equal portions with green sparkle.
    Rib: Oval medium silver tinsel.
    Hackle: A stripped large Ring Neck Pheasant rump hackle prepared and combed.
    Throat: A stripped Pin Tail Teal feather (medium to large) or equivalent.
    Wings: Two strips of brown molten peacock or turkey feathers with the stems attached
    Eyes: Jungle Cock, two medium sized.
    Glue: "Hard as Nails" or the equivalent. 

                                Tying In-Hand
    These six basic steps for tying flies "In Hand" were developed by Harry Lamier 
    and used for tying the Dillinger Spey fly. These six steps for tying in hand 
    can be used for tying larger wooly buggers, streamers, bucktails and steelhead flies. 

    1. Hold hook in your left hand with your thumb and index finger.

    2. With your right hand pick-up and place the fly material between the 3rd and 4th 
    fingers of your left hand.

    3. With your right thumb and index finger, place the tying material level on top the hook. 

    4. With you right hand, hold the hook and the material and hook in place with your 
    right thumb and index finger. Then make two thread wraps to tie on the material with 
    your left hand.

    5. Switch hands and adjust your material to their proper position with your right 
    hand. Then with you left hand, finish wrapping on the materials both up and back down 
    the hook.

    6. Put the hook in your left hand and repeat this method for tying on materials until 
    the fly is tied.

            Erik Simpson, 10.14.13

                                Tying Steps 
    Step 1.

    1. Hook.  Wax the shank of the hook.  Below the middle of hook shank, tie on a 
    white thread base from the starting point (just behind the return eye) to a point 
    forward of the barb tip. 

    2. Tie on a flat silver tinsel tag at a point just forward of the barb tip and 
    wrap the tinsel down the hook to the end of the barb with overlapping wraps. 
    Then wrap the tinsel forward to the tip of the barb and tie off with 3 thread wraps. 

    3. Using the thread, tie on a washed Pheasant Crest feather (washed and dried) 
    with  a low profile. First make two wraps and center crest.
    Step 2.  

    1. Body. Wax the thread and attach a medium proportion of black and claret seal 
    fur. Make a thread Loop with weighted hackle pliers. Lay on the seal fur and then 
    twist top and bottom. Twist the tread loop counter-clockwise and wrap it forward to 
    the mid-point up the shank. Trim excess fur and make 3 wraps.

    2. Tie on a stripped pheasant rump feather (prepared and combed) by the tip at the 
    7:00 position, shiny side forward. Put the stem of the feather through the hook eye.
    3. Wrap the tinsel forward making 5 wraps (2 behind and 3 forward). Tie off with 
    3 thread wraps and cut tinsel. 

    4. Palmer the pheasant feather forward just below the tinsel for protection to 
    the return eye.

    5. Lightly brush out the hackle fibers and tease out the seal fur with a bodkin or brush.

    6. Tie on the stripped teal throat hackle (prepared and combed) at the return eye.  
    Make 1-1/2 to 2 hackle wraps to show hackle fibers.  Make 4 thread wraps forward 
    and 4 wraps back. Cut the excess material. 

    7. Comb down all the hackle fibers below the hook to look like legs moving in the 
    water. Then with tweezers, place any stray materials back into the fly.      

    Step 3. 

    1. Thorax. Tie on each brown turkey wing (about 10 fibers wide) the length of 
    the body. Tie them on separately.  Use only half the hook space for each wing. 
    With the thread,  pull all of the wing fibers toward the shank. Make 4 thread 
    wraps for each wing, and tie off with a half hitch. Cut off the excess material.

    2. Tie on two medium sized jungle cock eyes each pointing lightly down. Make 4 
    thread wraps, and tie off with a half hitch. Cut the excess material.

    Step 4. 
    1. Head. Tie on a small thread head and make two double half hitches to tie off, cut thread.      

    2.  Blacken the thread head with a permanent marker. Let dry and glue. After 24 hours glue 
    the head again with your bodkin to get a smooth lacquer look
               Erik Simpson, 10.14.13