Rusty Parachute

February, 2012

                                  Fly Pattern:Rusty Parachute

            Tyer's Name: Bob Coons
            Date: February 6, 2012

    Fly Originator and History: Parachute-style dry flies originated in Scotland 
    around 1931-32. The credit goes to Helen Todd who tied flies by hand (without 
    a vise). Helen tied flies for the fishermen in her family, but she did not 
    actually fish.

                                How the Fly is Fished
    Suggested line and leader:  Floating line, tapered leader, 3x to 5x  tippet. 
    Depth: On the surface.
    Suggested retrieve:  Dead drift with an occasional twitch.

                                Fly Material
    Hook: #12 or 14,Tiemco 100 dry fly (or equivalent).
    Thread: 6/0 Black Uni Thread.
    Weighted y/n : No.
    Tail: Wood duck, flank feather, lemon
    Body: Antorn Blend, rust.
    Post: White calf's tail, or polar bear. 
    Hackle: #2 Dry fly saddle hackle, brown.
    Optional: Wapsi Premium Dubbing wax.

                                Tying Steps 
    1. Lay down a thread base from behind the eye to a little bit beyond the start 
    of the  bend of the hook (refer to the photo).

    2. Apply a  small amount of dubbing, first forming a 'bump' of dubbing, then 
    wrapping the remainder forward. The bump is used to force the tail to point upward.

    3. Tail. Return the thread to the front of the bump. Tie in 10 or 12 barbules 
    of wood duck. The bump in the dubbing should force the tail to slope up at an angle. 

    4. Post: Tie in a post about 2-eye lengths behind the eye.  Use thread wraps 
    to force the post to stand upright. Make sure the post is tied in securely. 
    Then, wrap thread around the post material, starting at the base and working 
    your way up. About 12 wraps will do it.

    5. Hackle: Strip a few of the barbules off of the butt of the feather.  Tie 
    in the butt next to the post, then holding the feather straight up, wrap the 
    bare stem onto the post (about 12 wraps). 

    6.  Body: Wrap the thread to the front of the bump, and apply more dubbing. 
    Wrap forward, forming a tapered body. Also, use the dubbing to cover the black 
    thread that forms the base of the post. End up with the thread in front of the post.

    7. Hackle: Wrap the hackle around the post (from the top-down), giving it 7 
    or 8 wraps. End up with the feather in front of the post. Tie off the feather, 
    being careful not to trap any of the wrapped barbules.

    8. Whip finish and glue. Use a bodkin to free any trapped barbules.

            Rick Shadforth 02/09/12