Pot Scrubber Nymph

October 2010


                                  Fly Pattern: Pot Scrubber Nymph
						    
    Tyer's Name: Rick Shadforth
    Date: Oct 4, 2010

    
    Fly Originator and History: The fly was originated by Dick Wigram in the late 
    1930's. Wigram named it "Wigram's Brown Nymph", and was first mentioned in his 
    book "Nymph Fishing in the Southern Hemisphere".  Sometime thereafter, one of 
    Wigram's friends discovered that the copper strands used for pot scrubbers 
    were perfect for ribbing material. Wigram then added the copper ribbing to 
    his nymph, and it became known throughout Tasmania as the "Wigram's Pot Scrubber 
    Nymph". The fly and its variations are still to this day, one of the most popular 
    nymph patterns in Tasmania. 

                                  How the Fly is Fished
    Suggested line and leader: Floating line, tapered leader, and a fluorocarbon 
    tippet if fish are feeding just below the surface. Otherwise use a sinking line 
    to get down to where the fish are.   
    Depth range: Below the surface. 
    Suggested retrieve: It varies. Start  off with a slow retrieve, and adjust accordingly
    Comments: 

                                  Fly Material
    Hook size/make/length: Nymph hook, #10 or 12 1XL, Dai-Riki 060 or equivalent.
    Thread: size / color / type:  8/0 Brown Uni-thread.
    Weighted? y/n: Optional: Wrap excess copper ribbing on forward shank prior 
    to adding thorax.
    Tail material / size / color: Brown hen hackle
    Body material / color: Fiery Brown Seal Sub dubbing (Jay Fair), and dark brown 
    wool (2 parts dubbing to 1 part wool.
    Ribbing: 1 strand from a copper pot scrubber.  
    Wing case / material / color: Turkey feather, mottled brown or black (your choice). 
    Raffia and "Thin Skin" can also be used instead of turkey.
    Head size / color: Small, black.
    Other: Black Sharpie, and a blade-type coffee grinder for blending dubbing (optional). 
    Note: Blade-type coffee grinders are inexpensive, and do a great job of unmatting dubbing. 


                                  Material Preparation
    Ribbing: Use cheap scissors to cut a long strand of copper material from the 
    pot scrubber. Smooth the strand, and form it so all of the curls are straightened out.

    Dubbing: Blend 2 parts of Jay Fair "Seal Sub" with 1 part dark wool. If using a 
    coffee grinder, cut the wool into 3/4-inch lengths so that it does not get 
    wrapped around the motor shaft. Blend the dubbing until it is loosely bound. 

                                  Tying Instructions
    1. Lay down a thread base from the eye to the bend (just above the barb).

    2. Tail. Tail should be about 1 shank's length. Tie in about 12 hackle 
    fibers at the mid-point of the shank and wrap to the bend.

    3. Rib. The rib should be tied in on the bottom of the shank. Tie in the rib 
    from the mid-point to the bend. 

    4. Body. Try to form a tapered body. Using sparse amounts of dubbing, form the 
    body from the bend to the mid-point of the shank. Keep building up the body 
    until it looks proportional for the size of the hook. 

    5. Rib. From the bend, wind about 3 or 4 tight wraps of ribbing to the mid-point. 
    Tie off the ribbing and cut off the excess.
    Note: If added weight is desired, continue wrapping the rib forward to just 
    behind the eye and tie it off

    6. At the mid-point, tie in the wing case.

    7. Thorax. The thorax should be about twice the thickness of the body, with 
    most of the dubbing laying on top of the shank. Using sparse amounts of dubbing, 
    form the thorax from the mid-point to just behind the eye. Use a 'figure-8' 
    wrapping technique along the top of the shank so as to form a 'humped-back' thorax. 
    Tie off the dubbing just behind the eye.

    8. Wing case. Fold the wing case material forward and secure it just behind the 
    eye. Tie it off and trim any excess material.

    9. Head. Using a black sharpie, color about 4 or 5-inches of thread. Form a 
    small head, whip finish and glue.

    10. Use a bodkin to free some of the dubbing fibers that are on the underside 
    of the thorax, and form some legs. Also free some fibers on the body to give 
    the fly a buggy look.

        Rick Shadforth  Oct 11, 2010