Parachute Adams

April, 2009

                                 Fly Pattern: Parachute Adams

              Tyer's Name: Al Lee                Email: See roster 
              Date: April 6, 2009                Phone: See roster
    Fly Originator and History: The Adams was developed in 1922 in Michigan 
    to catch a finicky new european trout  stocked to replace the Michigan Grayling 
    and Brook trout that had been wiped out by overfishing and habitat destruction 
    in the Boardman River. 

                                 How the Fly is Fished
    Suggested line and leader: Floating line and leader. 
    Depth: On the surface. 
    Suggested retrieve: Dead drift with an occasional twitch.
    Comments:Al ties in a shuck rather than a tail. The shuck suggests a 
    mayfly that is 'stuck' between emerger and adult phases, making it easy prey 
    for trout.

                                 Fly Material
    Hook: make /size / length: Partridge 'Klinkhammer'-style, size 10-18 
    Thread: size / color /type: 8/0 (or finer), gray .
    Weighted? y/n / size / # of wraps: No.
    Shuck material / size / color: A strand of rayon thread (your choice 
    of color, but red, brown, or black seem to work best). 
    Body material /size /color: "Super Fine" dubbing, gray (or the color
    of your choice). 
    Ribbing size / color: None.
    Thorax size / color: Optional - try peacock hurl.
    Post size / color: Calf's tail, white. 
    Hackle size / color: Grizzly and brown dry fly - should be oversized. (For 
    best results, use quality materials.)
    Head size / color: Small gray thread.
    Other: Clear Hard As Nails and Zap A Gap.
                                 Tying Steps
    1. Thread base. Start the base at about 20% of the shank's length behind the eye, 
    and lay down the base to a point just above the barb.

    2. Post. Select a small bundle of calf's tail. The portion that will be the 
    post should be at least a shank's length. Tie in the bundle at the mid-point 
    winding forward to the starting point. Don't prop-up the post at this time.
    3. At the mid-point, trim the excess calf's hair so that the edge of the bundle
    is tapered. Use a small amount of clear 'Hard As Nails' to secure the bundle
    to the shank.
    4. Shuck. Tie in a strand of rayon thread from the mid-point to the bend. 
    Use a brush or de-burring tool on the exposed thread to unravel it, giving 
    it a fuzzy look (See photo above). Trim the shuck to about a hook's gap in length.
    5. Body. Build up a tapered body from the bend to the post with thread. Create
    a thin dubbing rope and cover the area between the bend and the post.
    Note: If you have any dubbing left on your thread at this point, tie off the 
    thread with two half hitches, and cut off the excess, then tie on some new thread.
    6. Set the post perpendicular to the shank. Wrap the thread horizontally, up 
    and down the post about 8-10 wraps, forming a foundation for the hackle.
    7. Body. Create another small section of  dubbing rope and wrap the underside of 
    the post and then wrap forward, just short of the eye (leave some room for the head).
    8. Hackles. Select a grizzly and a brown hackle that is about two sizes larger
    than the normal size for your hook (i.e. a size 10 hackle for a size 14 hook).  
    9. Tie in both hackles with the shiny side up. Winding both hackles at the same 
    time, start at the top of the foundation and wind downwards. Each wrap 
    should be wound tightly against the previous one. Give it a minimum of 6 wraps.
    10. Tie off the hackles at the bottom of the post with a couple of half hitches.
    Apply a small amount of Zap A Gap to the secure the knot.
    11. Head. Create a small thread head, and finish with a half hitch. Apply a
    small amount of Zap A Gap.

                   Rick Shadforth 04/08/09