Egg Sucking String Leech by Rick Shadforth



                           Fly Pattern: Egg Sucking String Leech 
 
	
	Tier’s Name: Rick Shadforth            Email: (see roster)
	Date: 03/29/08                         Phone: (see roster)
	
	Fly Originator and History: Chronicled in the book Steelhead Fly Fishing by 
	Trey Combs, 1991, the string leech was originated by Mike Montaigne and perfected 
	by Bob Hull. It was used successfully along the Kispiox  and Skeena Rivers 
	in British Columbia.  

                                        How the Fly is Fished
	Suggested line and leader: Sinking line with a tapered leader
	Depth range:  Bottom
	Suggested retrieve:  For lakes, slow retrieve with slight up and down motion.
	Comments: This is a trout-sized version of the original string leech. Because 
	of the string hook, the fly “swims” more naturally than the standard leech 
	patterns that are commonly used in lakes and streams.


                                        Fly Material
	Hook make /size / length : 2 each, size 6 hook 3XL TMC 5263 or equivalent
	Thread: size / color / type: Flat waxed nylon,   match body color 
	Weighted? y/n / size / # of wraps: Optional.
	Tail material / size / color: None
	Body material / color: Straight cut rabbit strips, black, or dark olive
	Ribbing size / color: None
	Thorax size / color: None  
	Wing size / color: None                    
	Hackle size / color: None
	Head size / color: Metal red bead, 3/16” for a #6 hook. 
	Other: Black Dacron trolling line (I used 36 lb test so I could also use it 
	for steelhead string flies) . Don’t use monofilament – it’s too stiff.
	    
                                      Tying Steps

String hook.


	1.Snell one of the hooks with the black fishing line, leaving a tag that is 
	about 6” long. Coat the knot with Krazy Glue.  Put the hook aside for now. 
	(This will be the “rear hook”)

	2. Slide a red metal bead on the other hook and mount the hook in the vise. 
	If extra weight is desired, add it at this time, but do not apply it beyond 
	1/3 of the distance behind the eye. (This is the “leading hook”)

	3. Wrap a thread base from behind the bead to 1/2 way down the shank of the hook.  
	Leave the thread at the back of the base. Note that the rear half of this hook 
	will be cut off in Step 9.

	4. Lay the tag end of the black line on the shank of the leading hook and hold 
	it in place with one or two soft wraps. Adjust the line so that there is 
	about 1" of line between the tie in point and the eye of the rear hook. 

	5. Using very tight wraps, tie down the line all the way to the bead. Then, 
	fold the line over, and wrap it tightly back to the 1/2 way point. 

	6. Whip finish and cut off the excess line. Coat with Krazy Glue. This 
	completes the string hook.

	7. Select a rabbit strip that is somewhat longer that string hook. The strip 
	will be cut to size later.	

	8. Tie in the rabbit strip just behind the bead of the leading hook and whip 
	finish. Apply Krazy Glue.

	9.  Remove the leading hook from the vise and cut off the back half of the hook 
	just behind the thread wraps.

	10. Mount the rear hook in the vise.  Starting just above the point of the hook 
	and going forward, wrap a thread base of  about 12 to 15 wraps, and then go 
	back about 6 wraps. 

	11.  Apply some tension to the string hook and lay the rabbit strip on top of 
	the shank.  Cut off the strip about 1/2" behind the bend of the rear hook.  

	12. With the rabbit strip on the top of the shank, hold it down with 1 soft 
	wrap of thread. Again apply some tension to the string hook, making sure that 
	the string bears the force and not the rabbit strip.

	13. Apply a couple more soft wraps, and then use a dubbing needle to free the 
	hairs that are trapped under the wraps. Then wrap tightly.

	14. Use several half hitches to finish the wrapping (unless you feel like 
	wrestling with the whip finisher). Apply Krazy Glue. 

	        Rick Shadforth, 03/29/08