Egg Sucking String Leech by Rick Shadforth
Fly Pattern: Egg Sucking String Leech
Tier’s Name: Rick Shadforth Email: (see roster)
Date: 03/29/08 Phone: (see roster)
Fly Originator and History: Chronicled in the book Steelhead Fly Fishing by
Trey Combs, 1991, the string leech was originated by Mike Montaigne and perfected
by Bob Hull. It was used successfully along the Kispiox and Skeena Rivers
in British Columbia.
How the Fly is Fished
Suggested line and leader: Sinking line with a tapered leader
Depth range: Bottom
Suggested retrieve: For lakes, slow retrieve with slight up and down motion.
Comments: This is a trout-sized version of the original string leech. Because
of the string hook, the fly “swims” more naturally than the standard leech
patterns that are commonly used in lakes and streams.
Fly Material
Hook make /size / length : 2 each, size 6 hook 3XL TMC 5263 or equivalent
Thread: size / color / type: Flat waxed nylon, match body color
Weighted? y/n / size / # of wraps: Optional.
Tail material / size / color: None
Body material / color: Straight cut rabbit strips, black, or dark olive
Ribbing size / color: None
Thorax size / color: None
Wing size / color: None
Hackle size / color: None
Head size / color: Metal red bead, 3/16” for a #6 hook.
Other: Black Dacron trolling line (I used 36 lb test so I could also use it
for steelhead string flies) . Don’t use monofilament – it’s too stiff.
Tying Steps
String hook.
1.Snell one of the hooks with the black fishing line, leaving a tag that is about 6” long. Coat the knot with Krazy Glue. Put the hook aside for now. (This will be the “rear hook”) 2. Slide a red metal bead on the other hook and mount the hook in the vise. If extra weight is desired, add it at this time, but do not apply it beyond 1/3 of the distance behind the eye. (This is the “leading hook”) 3. Wrap a thread base from behind the bead to 1/2 way down the shank of the hook. Leave the thread at the back of the base. Note that the rear half of this hook will be cut off in Step 9. 4. Lay the tag end of the black line on the shank of the leading hook and hold it in place with one or two soft wraps. Adjust the line so that there is about 1" of line between the tie in point and the eye of the rear hook. 5. Using very tight wraps, tie down the line all the way to the bead. Then, fold the line over, and wrap it tightly back to the 1/2 way point. 6. Whip finish and cut off the excess line. Coat with Krazy Glue. This completes the string hook. 7. Select a rabbit strip that is somewhat longer that string hook. The strip will be cut to size later. 8. Tie in the rabbit strip just behind the bead of the leading hook and whip finish. Apply Krazy Glue. 9. Remove the leading hook from the vise and cut off the back half of the hook just behind the thread wraps. 10. Mount the rear hook in the vise. Starting just above the point of the hook and going forward, wrap a thread base of about 12 to 15 wraps, and then go back about 6 wraps. 11. Apply some tension to the string hook and lay the rabbit strip on top of the shank. Cut off the strip about 1/2" behind the bend of the rear hook. 12. With the rabbit strip on the top of the shank, hold it down with 1 soft wrap of thread. Again apply some tension to the string hook, making sure that the string bears the force and not the rabbit strip. 13. Apply a couple more soft wraps, and then use a dubbing needle to free the hairs that are trapped under the wraps. Then wrap tightly. 14. Use several half hitches to finish the wrapping (unless you feel like wrestling with the whip finisher). Apply Krazy Glue. Rick Shadforth, 03/29/08